Simplest way to choose one of several commands

[Nikolai Weibull <now@xxxxxxxx>]

Is there a simpler way of doing the following?

alias ls=${${(f)"$(whence -p {g,}ls)"}[1]}' --color'

I need to select gls, if thatâs whatâs installed, otherwise ls.  (The
code above assumes that at least ls is installed, which isnât a
problem.)